- This topic has 30 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 4 months, 3 weeks ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Thanks @rcgrier3406. Old school is best school. XD
I just had an ideal of where to mount the motor and side actuator rods: up on the top center beam. It’ll be risky like an interference type engine but a fun idea to watch the counterweight and drawn rods trade space and the leverages versus pull should work at that direct angle.
Got the frame updated IRL. I figure under a kilo of ballast as 1×1 plates is needed (931g). Still have to devise the motorization but even by hand, the movement is smoother.
It still needs some adjustments but it’s working with the L motor drive. It will be motorized for HG show.
I’ll need to make a video of the operation. The motor draws in the twin teethed arms to raise the bridge. Added a light at the top front to glow red when in operation. It has a manual safety mode where one can rotate a gear a hundred times LOL or another manual mode by removing the worm gear. I figure a little more ballast and some PF extension wire to put the control in the cabin.
The Bridge is in operational order. Ballast works. The switch works. Ran it a couple dozen times repeatedly to test operability and self-alignment of the track. It even runs off a 9v speed regulator so no need for batteries. I have the motor switch connected to the feed from the Speed Regulator so that you simply turn on the regulator to have the lights on. Then flip the switch at the cabin to raise and lower the bridge will feeding off of that power. That way, Lights and (soon sirens) will go off as soon as there’s a current without accidentally activating the bridge. So it’s safe in standby mode. I’m ordering some 2×2 siren bricks off Bricklink so hopefully we can hear an alarm over the noise of the crowd.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.